Cicchetti in Venice are small plates meant to be eaten standing, glass in hand, in rooms about the size of a living room. Six bacari, the city’s traditional wine bars, reward an unhurried evening of wandering from canal to canal. Here is how to order, and where to begin.
How to order cicchetti in Venice
Point at what you like in the display cabinet, or ask for a number of each: un, due, tre, quattro di questi, per favore. Ask for an ombra, the Venetian word for a small glass of house wine. If you want something more special, ask for a glass of red or white by name. Many bacari follow a daily menu that tracks the freshest catch, and it is wise to carry some cash, since smaller places may prefer it.
Cantine del Vino già Schiavi, Dorsoduro
Just past the first bridge on Rio San Trovaso, this long-loved wine shop is a place to linger over crostini topped with parmesan, pistachio and fig, tiny tuna and leek toasts, and plates of raw fish and oysters. The shelves of bottles behind the counter make choosing a glass part of the pleasure.
Osteria al Squero, Dorsoduro
At the end of Fondamenta Nani, facing a working gondola boatyard, Osteria al Squero serves hot crostini with lardo and pink peppercorns, and fried meatballs. Take your glass and plate outside and sit by the canal while the boatbuilders’ yard turns gold in the late light.
Enoteca Al Volto, near the Rialto
On Calle Cavalli, Enoteca Al Volto is often described as one of Venice’s oldest wine bars. Its baccalà mantecato on polenta, a whipped salt cod purée at the heart of the Venetian table, is the dish to order first.
Bar All’Arco, San Polo
Small and simple, Bar All’Arco in San Polo is a lunchtime favorite. Come when the display cabinet is full, choose several bites and keep the afternoon open.
Osteria Bancogiro, Rialto
On Campo San Giacometto beside the Grand Canal, Bancogiro offers a more polished canalside moment, with garlicky scallops on squid-ink polenta chips and vitello tonnato. Reserve a table on the water if you can.
Ai DiVini, Cannaregio
On the corner of Salizada San Canzian, Ai DiVini serves filled pastries, boards of cheese and charcuterie, and a short list of hot dishes. It is a quiet end to the evening in a neighborhood that loves its wine.
Plan the evening as a loose crawl rather than a fixed route: one bite and one ombra in each place, and then on. For the days around it, our 48 hours in Venice itinerary sets out the sights between meals.
