Shopping in Khan el-Khalili is one of Cairo’s great pleasures, and it works best as a slow afternoon rather than a list. The bazaar dates to the late fourteenth century, and its lanes of lanterns, brass, jewelry and spices still carry the energy of a working market. Here is how to enjoy it with unhurried curiosity.
A short history of the khan
Khan el-Khalili was built in the 1380s during the reign of Sultan Barquq, by his Master of the Stables, Jaharkas al-Khalili, and it took its name from him. By the late fifteenth century the district had become a major center of trade. Today the core is bounded by al-Muizz Street on the west, al-Muski Street on the south and the Al-Hussein Mosque on the east, with Al-Azhar Mosque close by.
What to look for
Lanterns come first: pierced brass and colored glass in every size, glowing in the afternoon shade. Look too for inlaid boxes, copper trays, textiles and carefully made souvenirs. Each lane has its own specialty, and wandering is the best way to find them.
Next to the main bazaar, the goldsmiths’ souq remains important to Cairenes, who shop there for jewelry. Even if you’re not buying, the windows of gold and silver are worth a slow walk.
Bargaining with good humor
Prices in the khan are usually discussed, and it’s part of the ritual. Smile, ask about the piece, offer a price you’re happy with and enjoy the conversation. A cup of tea often arrives with it. Walk away gently if the number isn’t right; there’s always another lane.
Pause at El-Fishawy
Halfway through the afternoon, stop at El-Fishawy, a coffeehouse established in 1773 and among the best-known in the bazaar. Mint tea, strong coffee and a view of the passing lanes make a fine intermission.
Literary travelers may also like to know that Naguib Mahfouz set his 1947 novel Midaq Alley in an alley here. Reading a few pages before your visit gives the lanes a story.
Planning your Khan el-Khalili visit
Late afternoon into evening is the loveliest time, when the lanterns are lit and the air cools. Comfortable shoes help on the uneven lanes, and a small amount of cash makes purchases easier. Shop hours vary, so confirm locally.
Pair the bazaar with the monuments of Islamic Cairo nearby, or begin your trip with a cultured journey through Egypt and finish here for a last evening in the old city.
