Valletta is small enough to walk end to end in under an hour, and generous enough to fill a weekend. Its honey-colored streets, wooden balconies and sea views make it one of the Mediterranean’s most photogenic capitals. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in Valletta without rushing a moment.
Day One: Stone, Light and a Masterpiece
Start at St John’s Co-Cathedral. The Knights of St John built it between 1573 and 1578 as their conventual church, and the interior is a lavish contrast to the plain facade. The floor is made of marble tombstones that mark the graves of about 375 knights and officers of the order. Look down as much as you look up.
In the oratory hangs Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, painted in 1608. It’s described as the only painting the artist signed. Give it time. The scale and drama grow on you the longer you stand.
Lunch can be long and unhurried. For an evening to remember, our guide to fine dining in Valletta points the way to the city’s most considered tables.
Late Afternoon at Upper Barrakka Gardens
Save the view for later in the day. The Upper Barrakka Gardens sit at the highest point of the city walls and look out over the Grand Harbour, the Three Cities and the shipyards below. The terraced gardens date from 1661 and have been open to the public since 1800.
Cannons are fired from the Saluting Battery on the lower tier daily, usually at noon and 4 pm. Time your visit for the afternoon firing and you’ll catch the harbor at its most theatrical. A lift, which reopened in a new form in December 2012, connects the gardens to the waterfront below. Gardens open from 10:00 to 22:00 as of this writing.
Day Two: Wander, Then Look Out to Sea
Spend the second morning simply walking. Valletta rewards the aimless. Side streets slope toward the water, and every few steps there’s another view of boats, bastions or stone terraces. Stop for coffee whenever the mood strikes.
If the weather is clear, take a boat trip across the Grand Harbour in the afternoon. The city looks different from the water, its walls glowing as the sun lowers.
Practical Notes for a Valletta Weekend
Wear comfortable shoes, since the streets slope and the stone is smooth. Cover your shoulders and knees for the cathedral. Book dinner ahead in busy seasons. And check opening hours for the cathedral and oratory before you go, as they can change with the season and special events.
Two days won’t exhaust Valletta. They will leave you planning a return.
